You don’t realize how quiet life is in Canada until you visit Mexico. As in most developing countries, life unfolds in the public sphere, for all to see and hear.
Vendors, advertisers and public service announcers all use the truck-with-giant-megaphone tactic. Water and propane are favourites, their call generally proceeded by an electronic music ditty. Steam whistles announce charcoal vendors. Dragging metal chains publicize something else. Main street corners host men yelling unintelligibly (to the uninitiated) – perhaps directing you somewhere, perhaps selling you something unseen. Add to that the softer, repeated invitations of every street vendor of food or goods for you to buy, enter, browse, eat…
Music, of course, is ubiquitous – a lovely part of Latino culture. The choice of music can, however, be questionable. The reggae, salsa, son, reggaeton, Spanish and English pop music, these are everywhere and welcome accompaniments to the surroundings. The ranchero music (best described as Mexican polka) less so. The karaoke (ranging from slightly bad to really awful) much less so, particularly when the most popular karaoke bar is directly across the street from your hotel room. The previously-mentioned, perpetually and purposely out-of-tune organ grinders of Mexico City, would be welcome to never play again. All forms of music increase in presence and volume between 8pm and 3am.
Animals add their own noise to the cacophony, both diurnal and nocturnal. Street dogs seem to bark only when provoked or in a fight, but domestic dogs cooped up on small patios convince you that animal control is a positive step. In nicer, greener locations, various birds can be heard. In all locations, roosters crow incessantly. The popular belief that they cock-a-doodle-doo only at dawn is just plain wrong. Dawn, morning, midday, dusk and pure darkness are all cause for them to alert the world. Now in the jungle, the newest animal noises are the hum of crickets and the brutal, fear-inspiring roars of howler monkeys.
‘Obras’ (loosely translated as ‘work’) occur in all locations, at all hours, seemingly increasing just when you try to sleep (see ‘music’, above). Jackhammering, pick-axing rock, concrete walls or sidewalks, generators, lawnmowers, small and large machinery all contribute to the general auditory chaos. Car horns warn, communicate and declare a healthy dislike for your mother. Protests and religious chants can occur at any time. Explosives, either gunshots or fireworks, are much like the roosters. Supposedly they are to happen only at dawn to invite the favourite patron saint in or scare the bad spirits away, but they are ongoing day and night.
All this is punctuated by the closeness of neighbours. Whether they are snoring through the walls, hosting a teenage pool party, banging up and down metal staircases, disciplining children, having idiotic conversations, or just living their lives, you are a part of it. In fact, in our remote jungle cabin near the Palenque ruins, we just heard our neighbour pee….
No comments:
Post a Comment